Ride the cable car up
From Funchal's old town, the Teleférico glides up to Monte in about 15 minutes, with the whole bay opening beneath you.
A Madeira Rite of Passage
Two men in white cotton and straw boater hats, a wicker basket on greased wooden runners, and a 2-kilometre hill down into Funchal. The carros de cesto are Madeira's strangest, most joyful ride — part transport relic, part toboggan run, entirely unforgettable.
What it is
Back in the 1850s, before roads and cars, the fastest way down from the hillside parish of Monte to the city of Funchal was to sit in a sledge and let gravity do the work. What began as everyday commuting became the island's most famous experience: the carros de cesto — hand-woven wicker seats mounted on wooden runners, steered by two carreiros who run alongside, ropes in hand, leaning the sled through the bends and dragging their rubber-soled boots to brake.
You climb in for two, they give a push, and you slide roughly 2 km down the winding street from Monte toward Livramento — around 10 minutes, touching 30-something km/h where the hill steepens. It looks precarious and feels playful; the carreiros have been doing this their whole lives, often the trade passed father to son.
The classic half-day
The toboggan is the finale of a lovely loop above Funchal — here's the sequence most people follow.
From Funchal's old town, the Teleférico glides up to Monte in about 15 minutes, with the whole bay opening beneath you.
Visit the twin-towered Nossa Senhora do Monte church and the lush Monte Palace Tropical Garden — koi ponds, tilework and tree ferns.
Board the wicker sled near the church and let the carreiros carry you down toward the city. Photos are half the fun — they'll snap you mid-run.
The run ends short of the centre; grab a taxi or the local bus the rest of the way, or stroll down for a poncha in the old town.
Good to know
When: the toboggans run Monday to Saturday, roughly 9am–6pm (not Sundays or major holidays), weather permitting. Mornings are quieter; midday brings the tour crowds. Cost: expect around $35–50 for two people for the ride, paid on the spot — the cable car and gardens are separate tickets.
Is it safe? Yes — it's slower and more controlled than it looks, and the carreiros are experts. It's a gentle thrill, not an extreme sport: fine for most ages, though not built for wheelchairs or the very frail. Bring a little cash for the on-the-day photo, and wear something you don't mind sitting low in.
We'll fold the cable car, Monte gardens and the toboggan into a relaxed half-day — and pair it with the rest of your Madeira trip.
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